Masonry Chisels Price Comparison
Compare 204 masonry chisels from Draper Tools, Makita and DeWALT. Find the best price across top UK retailers and pick the right chisel for your job.
Masonry Chisels price comparison UK
Masonry chisels are one of those tools where the gap between a decent one and a poor one becomes painfully obvious the moment you start striking. We've looked at 204 products across this category, and the first thing that stands out is just how dominant Draper Tools is — over 60% of the catalogue carries their name, with prices clustering well below the market average. That's not necessarily a bad thing: Draper's chrome vanadium steel chisels have earned a solid reputation on British building sites, and their range covers everything from narrow pointing chisels to wide bolster types for splitting brick courses.
What separates a reliable masonry chisel from a frustrating one comes down to a handful of things: the quality of the temper on the blade, how well the striking head resists mushrooming after repeated hammer blows, and whether the handle material does anything useful to dampen vibration. Hardwood handles remain the preferred choice for extended use — fibreglass is tougher, but wood absorbs shock noticeably better. Plastic handles, common on budget options, tend to transmit every impact straight to your palm.
Makita and DeWALT sit at the premium end, with average prices roughly double that of Draper. For professional or semi-professional use — particularly with SDS rotary hammers — their hardened and tempered striking heads and precision bevel profiles justify the outlay. If you're tackling occasional DIY pointing or removing old mortar joints, spending over 15 £ is hard to justify. The sweet spot for most users sits between 7 £ and 10 £, where you get a properly tempered blade, an octagonal striking head that won't roll off the workbench, and a handle that won't split after a season's use.
It's also worth pairing your chisel choice with the right hammer weight — a 1.5kg club hammer suits most general masonry work, whilst heavier stone requires stepping up to 2–3kg. For related hand tools, our metalworking chisels category covers cold chisels and punches, and if you're working on surface preparation more broadly, the wire brushes range is worth a look for cleaning joints before pointing. Prices in this category start from as little as 3 £, though at that end you're really looking at single-use or very light-duty tools.
How to Choose the Right Masonry Chisel
With prices ranging from 3 £ to 69 £ and brands spanning budget to professional, picking the right masonry chisel isn't as straightforward as it looks. The wrong choice doesn't just slow you down — a poorly tempered striking head can mushroom dangerously after a dozen blows. Here's what actually matters.
Blade width for the task in hand
This is the first decision to make, and it's driven entirely by what you're cutting. Wide bolster chisels (50–100mm) are built for splitting bricks, cutting through block courses, or removing large sections of render — they distribute force across a broad edge and move material quickly. Narrow chisels (6–25mm) are the right tool for raking out mortar joints, chasing cables into walls, or working in confined spaces where a wide blade would simply bind. Most tradespeople keep at least two widths to hand. If you're buying a single chisel for general use, a 25mm blade is the most versatile starting point.
Steel quality and temper
Chrome vanadium steel is the benchmark worth looking for — it holds an edge significantly better than standard carbon steel and resists chipping when you hit a hard aggregate or flint inclusion in the masonry. The hardness rating matters too: 45–55 HRC is the practical range for masonry chisels. Below 45 HRC and the edge blunts quickly; above 55 HRC and the blade becomes brittle, prone to snapping rather than flexing under impact. Budget chisels often skip the precision heat-treatment step, which is why they feel fine on the first job and disappointing on the third.
Striking head design and mushrooming resistance
An octagonal or hexagonal striking head does two useful things: it stops the chisel rolling off a scaffold board, and it gives your hammer a consistent, flat surface to strike. More importantly, the striking head must be hardened — soft steel deforms quickly under repeated blows, creating a mushroomed edge that's both less effective and genuinely dangerous (metal fragments can break off). Check that the manufacturer specifies a hardened and tempered striking head, not just a hardened blade. This distinction matters more than most buyers realise.
Handle material and vibration damping
Hardwood handles — typically ash or hickory — absorb vibration better than any synthetic alternative. If you're using a masonry chisel for more than twenty minutes at a stretch, this stops being a comfort issue and becomes a repetitive strain concern. Fibreglass handles are more durable and weather-resistant, a reasonable trade-off for site use. Plastic handles are fine for occasional DIY but transmit shock directly to the hand. Handle length (typically 100–150mm) affects leverage: longer handles give more control on heavy work, shorter ones suit precision tasks.
Blade profile and bevel angle
A flat-edged blade suits general cutting and pointing work. A single or double bevel (typically 25–45 degrees) improves penetration into hard masonry and reduces binding — the tendency of the blade to stick in the cut and require excessive force to advance. For hard stone or engineering brick, a bevelled profile makes a noticeable difference to cutting speed. For softer brick and mortar raking, a flat edge is perfectly adequate and easier to maintain. Tapered tips concentrate force for breaking work; wider flat tips distribute it for cleaner cuts.
Corrosion resistance and blade finish
Masonry work is a damp environment — wet mortar, rain on site, storage in a van overnight. Nickel-plated or chrome-plated blades resist rust and extend tool life meaningfully. Uncoated steel chisels need regular oiling to stay in good condition, which most people simply don't do. If you're buying for occasional use and the chisel will spend months in a toolbox between jobs, a corrosion-resistant finish is worth the small price premium. Polished steel is easier to clean and shows wear more clearly, which is a useful safety indicator.
- Entry-level picks (From 3 £ to 7 £) : Single chisels from Draper Tools and Yato, typically uncoated carbon steel with basic plastic handles. Fine for a one-off job — removing a tile, raking a single joint — but not built for repeated heavy use. Striking heads on this tier often show mushrooming quickly. Yato's budget range sits here and offers reasonable value for very light work.
- The practical sweet spot (From 7 £ to 10 £) : Where most of the Draper Tools catalogue lives, and honestly where the majority of DIYers and occasional tradespeople should be shopping. Chrome vanadium blades, octagonal striking heads, and decent hardwood or fibreglass handles are all achievable at this price. Good enough for a full day's pointing or brick splitting without embarrassing yourself.
- Semi-professional range (From 10 £ to 15 £) : Draper's heavier-duty sets, Stanley, and the lower end of Makita's range. Expect better temper consistency, wider blade selections, and more robust handle construction. Multi-piece sets often appear here, offering good value if you need several widths. A sensible choice for anyone doing regular renovation work or small building projects.
- Professional and specialist tools (Over 15 £) : Makita, DeWALT, Gedore, and DEDRA dominate this tier. These are chisels designed for use with SDS rotary hammers, heavy demolition, or specialist masonry work. DeWALT's average sits notably higher than the category average — you're paying for precision heat treatment, superior fatigue resistance, and compatibility with professional hammer weights up to 3kg. Overkill for DIY; hard to argue against for daily professional use.
Top products
- Draper Tools 69619 masonry chisels (Draper Tools) : The most-compared product in this category for good reason — 7 offers means genuine price competition across retailers. A solid mid-range Draper set with chrome vanadium blades; the right choice for most DIYers who want a reliable multi-piece kit without overspending.
- Draper Tools 77142 masonry chisels (Draper Tools) : The lowest-priced product with 7 offers — impressive value for a single entry-level chisel. Fine for occasional light work, but don't expect the striking head to hold up under sustained heavy use. A sensible first chisel for a beginner's toolkit.
- Draper Tools 53074 masonry chisels (Draper Tools) : The priciest Draper entry in the top 15, sitting well above the brand's average — this is their heavier-duty or multi-piece set territory. If you need a comprehensive range of widths for a renovation project, this is the Draper option to compare first.
- Draper Tools 26559 masonry chisels (Draper Tools) : Priced right at the median, this represents the classic sweet-spot Draper chisel — enough quality for regular use, widely available across multiple retailers. A dependable workhorse rather than an exciting choice, which is exactly what you want in a masonry chisel.
- Draper Tools 24405 masonry chisels (Draper Tools) : Sits just above the Q1 price point with 7 offers — one of the best-value options in the catalogue for anyone who wants a step up from the absolute budget tier without committing to a full set. Good for tradespeople who need a reliable spare on site.
Related categories
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a bolster chisel and a masonry chisel?
A bolster chisel has a wide, flat blade (typically 50–100mm) designed for splitting bricks, cutting through block courses, and removing large sections of material in a single blow. A masonry chisel is a broader term covering all chisels designed for use on stone, brick, and concrete — including narrow pointing chisels, plugging chisels for raking mortar joints, and cold chisels for breaking hard material. In practice, most people use "masonry chisel" and "bolster chisel" interchangeably for the wide-bladed type, but if you're buying for a specific task like joint raking, you'll want a narrower plugging chisel rather than a bolster.
What hammer weight should I use with a masonry chisel?
For most masonry chisels, a 1.5kg club hammer is the standard recommendation and covers the majority of general work including brick splitting, mortar raking, and light concrete breaking. Lighter hammers (around 1kg) suit detailed or precision work where control matters more than force. For hard stone or heavy demolition, stepping up to a 2–2.5kg lump hammer delivers more energy per blow — but using an oversized hammer with a lightweight chisel risks damaging the striking head and accelerates mushrooming. Always match the hammer weight to the chisel's specification.
How do I know if a masonry chisel's striking head is safe to use?
Check the striking head for mushrooming — this is where the edges have spread outward and curled from repeated hammer impacts. A mushroomed head is a safety hazard because metal fragments can break off during use. Run your thumb around the edge of the striking head: it should feel flat and even, with no raised or curled lips. If you see significant deformation, the chisel should be dressed with a grinding wheel or replaced. This is particularly common on budget chisels with soft, unhardened striking heads, which is why specifying a hardened and tempered head matters when buying.
Is chrome vanadium steel worth paying more for in a masonry chisel?
Yes, for anything beyond very occasional use. Chrome vanadium steel holds its edge significantly longer than standard carbon steel and resists chipping when it contacts hard aggregates or flint inclusions in masonry. The practical difference shows up after the first few jobs: a carbon steel blade will need dressing or sharpening noticeably sooner. Most of the Draper Tools range in the mid-price tier uses chrome vanadium, which is one reason they represent such good value — you're not paying premium prices for a material that's now fairly standard in the mid-market.
Can I use a masonry chisel with an SDS rotary hammer drill?
Only if the chisel is specifically designed for it. Standard hand-struck masonry chisels are not compatible with SDS rotary hammers — the shank design, steel temper, and fatigue resistance are all different. SDS chisels have a specific shank profile (SDS-plus or SDS-max) that locks into the hammer's chuck. Using a hand chisel in a power tool is dangerous and will damage both the tool and the chisel. Makita and DeWALT both produce SDS-compatible chisels, and these are what you'll find at the higher end of this category's price range.
Are cheap masonry chisels from budget brands worth buying, or should I avoid them?
For a single, non-critical job they're acceptable — but approach them with realistic expectations. The main failure modes on very cheap chisels are: striking heads that mushroom after a handful of blows, blades that lose their edge quickly on hard masonry, and handles that split or crack under sustained use. Brands like Yato and Brilliant Tools at the lower end of this catalogue are honest budget options for light work, but if you're spending a weekend splitting bricks or raking out an entire wall of pointing, the false economy becomes obvious quickly. Spending a little more to reach the 7 £–10 £ range gets you a meaningfully better tool.
How should I maintain a masonry chisel to extend its life?
Three things matter most: keep the blade edge dressed, protect the steel from rust, and monitor the striking head. Dress the blade edge with a bench grinder or angle grinder when it becomes blunt or chipped — a sharp chisel requires less force and is safer to use. After use in damp conditions, wipe the blade dry and apply a light coat of oil to uncoated steel to prevent rust; nickel-plated or chrome-plated blades need less attention here. Inspect the striking head regularly for mushrooming and grind back any spread edges before they become a hazard. Store chisels individually or in a roll to prevent blade-on-blade contact that dulls edges prematurely.