Circular Saw Blades Price Comparison 2026
Compare 649 circular saw blades from Bosch, Makita, DeWALT and more — find the best price across top UK retailers, from 4 £ to 134 £.
Choosing the wrong circular saw blade is one of the most common — and costly — mistakes in any workshop. A blade that's mismatched to your material or saw will tear, burn, and blunt within a few cuts. We've analysed 649 blades across the full price spectrum, from budget Draper Tools and Yato options through to Festool's premium offerings, and the picture is clear: the brand hierarchy matters far less than getting the tooth geometry and diameter right for your specific job.
Bosch dominates this category with nearly half the catalogue, and their pricing sits right around the market average. Makita and DeWALT cluster closely together at a slight premium, both offering excellent carbide-tipped blades with reliable run-out tolerances. At the other end, Draper Tools accounts for the bulk of the most-listed products — and while their blades won't embarrass themselves on a building site, they're a different proposition to a precision-balanced Festool blade designed for fine joinery. Festool's average price reflects that gap clearly.
The price range here is genuinely wide. Entry-level blades start from 4 £, while specialist or large-diameter blades push past 53 £ — and the top of the market reaches 134 £. For most DIYers and tradespeople, the sweet spot sits between 18 £ and 34 £: that's where you'll find carbide-tipped blades from Bosch and Makita with proper expansion slots, sensible kerf widths, and tooth counts suited to general timber work. Spending less than 18 £ is fine for occasional use, but don't expect thin-kerf precision or long tooth life from a budget steel blade.
One thing worth flagging: the arbor hole diameter is non-negotiable. A 30 mm arbor blade will not safely mount on a 25.4 mm spindle, full stop. Always cross-reference your saw's manual before buying — it's the single most avoidable mistake we see. If you're also working with sheet materials or need to cut curves, our jigsaw and reciprocating saw blades category covers those applications. For masonry and tile work, diamond blades are the correct tool entirely. And if you're running a chainsaw alongside your circular, replacement saw chains are worth bookmarking too.
Comparing prices across Currys, Amazon.co.uk, and specialist tool retailers can save a meaningful amount — particularly on Bosch and Makita blades, where we regularly see significant variation between stockists for the identical product. That's exactly where MagicPrices earns its keep.
How to Choose the Right Circular Saw Blade
Most blade purchases go wrong before the buyer even looks at tooth count or kerf width — they get the diameter or arbor hole wrong. Start with your saw's spec sheet, then work outwards from there. Here's what actually matters, in order of importance.
Blade diameter and arbor hole compatibility
This is the non-negotiable starting point. Your blade must match your saw's specified diameter — common sizes include 165 mm, 185 mm, 210 mm, 255 mm and 305 mm — and the arbor hole must fit the spindle precisely. Standard arbor sizes are 16 mm, 20 mm, 25.4 mm (1 inch) and 30 mm. Fitting an incorrectly sized blade is a safety hazard, not just a performance issue. Check your saw's manual; don't guess.
Tooth count for your material and cut type
Low tooth counts (24–40 teeth) remove material fast and suit ripping softwood or cutting sheet goods where finish quality is secondary. High tooth counts (60–100+) produce cleaner, chip-free edges and are essential for hardwood crosscuts, laminate, or MDF. A 40-tooth general-purpose blade is a reasonable compromise for mixed site work, but if you're doing fine joinery or cutting veneered panels, don't compromise — go 80 teeth or above with an ATB (alternate top bevel) grind.
Tooth geometry: hook angle and grind type
Hook angle determines how aggressively the blade bites. Positive hook angles (15–25°) suit ripping along the grain; negative angles (-5° to 0°) are safer for crosscutting and reduce kickback risk on sliding mitre saws. Grind type matters too: flat top grind (FTG) is fast for ripping, ATB is cleaner for crosscuts, and combination grinds handle both adequately. Festool and Bosch both label their tooth geometry clearly; budget blades often don't, which is a genuine limitation.
Carbide grade and coating
All blades in the mid-to-upper price range use tungsten carbide-tipped teeth — these last 10 to 50 times longer than plain high-speed steel. What varies is the carbide grade and any surface treatment. PTFE (non-stick) coatings reduce resin build-up and heat, which matters when cutting treated timber or MDF. Titanium coatings add surface hardness. Budget blades below 18 £ often use lower-grade carbide or thinner brazing — they'll blunt faster on hardwood and abrasive sheet materials.
Kerf width and saw power
Thin-kerf blades (1.8–2.2 mm) waste less material and demand less from the motor — important on cordless saws or lower-amperage corded models. Standard kerfs (2.2–2.5 mm) are more rigid and better suited to deep cuts in dense hardwood. If you're running a compact 18V cordless saw, a thin-kerf blade will noticeably improve battery life and cutting speed. On a powerful corded saw, the difference is less critical.
Expansion slots and vibration damping
Quality blades — particularly from Bosch, Makita and Festool — feature laser-cut expansion slots in the blade body. These serve two purposes: they allow the steel to expand under heat without warping, and they damp vibration, reducing noise and chatter marks on the workpiece. On cheaper blades, the absence of these slots becomes obvious when cutting for extended periods — the blade heats up, deflects slightly, and cut quality deteriorates. It's one of the clearest indicators of blade quality that you can see before buying.
- Budget picks (From 4 £ to 18 £) : Dominated by Draper Tools, Yato and Einhell. Adequate for occasional DIY use on softwood and basic sheet materials. Expect shorter tooth life and less precise run-out tolerances. Fine if you're replacing a blade for a one-off job and don't want to overspend.
- The sweet spot (From 18 £ to 34 £) : Where Bosch and Makita general-purpose blades live. Carbide-tipped, with proper expansion slots and reliable arbor tolerances. This is the range we'd recommend for most tradespeople and serious DIYers — good performance, competitive pricing, widely available at Currys, Amazon and tool specialists.
- For the exacting (From 34 £ to 53 £) : Specialist blades from Bosch Expert series, Makita Specialized, DeWALT Extreme and Metabo. Higher tooth counts, finer carbide grades, PTFE coatings. Worth the step-up for hardwood joinery, laminate flooring, or any application where tear-out is unacceptable.
- Professional and premium (Over 53 £) : Festool's territory, plus large-diameter specialist blades. Precision-balanced to sub-0.05 mm run-out, designed for track saw systems and fine cabinet work. Overkill for general construction, but genuinely transformative for furniture makers and finish carpenters who can't afford chipping on expensive hardwood.
Top products
- Draper Tools 21685 circular saw blade 25.5 cm 1 pc(s) (Draper Tools) : The largest Draper blade in the top-listed group — the 255 mm diameter makes it compatible with full-size corded saws. Decent value for site work, but don't expect fine-finish performance from this price point.
- Draper Tools 25873 circular saw blade 31.5 cm 1 pc(s) (Draper Tools) : The largest blade in the Draper top-listed range at 315 mm — suited to table saws and large-format cuts. Priced at the upper end of the Draper range, which tells you something about the cost of larger-diameter steel. Functional, not precision.
- Draper Tools 22201 circular saw blade 30.5 cm 1 pc(s) (Draper Tools) : A 305 mm blade at a very accessible price — good for replacing a worn blade on a large corded saw without breaking the budget. Best suited to softwood and rough cuts rather than fine joinery.
- Draper Tools 31978 circular saw blade 25.5 cm 1 pc(s) (Draper Tools) : The pricier of the two 255 mm Draper blades — likely a higher tooth count or specialist grind. Worth comparing directly against the 21685 to see which tooth geometry suits your application before committing.
- Draper Tools 26013 circular saw blade 16.5 cm 1 pc(s) (Draper Tools) : The go-to replacement blade for compact 165 mm circular saws. Widely available, competitively priced, and perfectly adequate for DIY timber cuts. Not the blade you'd choose for laminate flooring or hardwood — but for a quick replacement, it does the job.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know which blade diameter fits my circular saw?
Check your saw's manual or the blade guard — the maximum blade diameter is always stamped or printed there. Common sizes are 165 mm for compact saws, 185 mm for standard handheld models, and 210–255 mm for larger corded saws. Never fit a blade larger than the rated maximum; it will contact the guard and create a serious kickback hazard.
What tooth count should I use for cutting MDF and laminate?
For MDF and laminate, use a blade with at least 60 teeth, ideally 80 or more, with an ATB (alternate top bevel) grind. These materials are highly abrasive and will blunt low-tooth-count blades quickly, and the fine tooth geometry minimises chipping on the laminate face. A PTFE-coated blade also helps — MDF resin builds up on uncoated teeth and causes burning.
Is it worth spending more than 34 £ on a circular saw blade?
Yes, if you're cutting hardwood, laminate, or doing finish work where surface quality matters. Above 34 £, you're typically getting higher-grade carbide, finer tooth geometry, and precision balancing — all of which translate to cleaner cuts and longer blade life. For rough construction cuts in softwood, a mid-range blade is perfectly sufficient.
Can I use a Bosch blade on a Makita or DeWALT saw?
Yes, provided the diameter and arbor hole match your saw's specifications. Blade brands are not locked to saw brands — a Bosch 165 mm blade with a 20 mm arbor will fit any saw that accepts those dimensions, regardless of manufacturer. Always verify both measurements before purchasing.
What's the difference between a ripping blade and a crosscut blade?
A ripping blade has a low tooth count (24–40), a flat top grind, and a positive hook angle — designed to cut quickly along the wood grain with aggressive material removal. A crosscut blade has more teeth (60–100), an ATB grind, and a neutral or negative hook angle for clean cuts across the grain with minimal tear-out. Using a ripping blade for crosscuts produces a rough, splintered edge; using a crosscut blade for ripping is slow and can cause burning.
Are cheap circular saw blades actually dangerous?
Not inherently, but the risks are real if you push them beyond their limits. Budget blades from brands like Draper Tools and Yato are manufactured to lower tolerances — higher run-out, thinner carbide brazing, and no expansion slots. This means they're more prone to vibration, heat warping, and tooth loss under sustained heavy use. For occasional light work, they're fine. For prolonged cutting in hardwood or abrasive materials, a blade failure mid-cut is a genuine hazard. Always check the blade's maximum RPM rating matches your saw.
How often should I replace or sharpen a circular saw blade?
Replace or sharpen when you notice burning on the cut surface, the saw requires noticeably more force to push through material, or the cut edge becomes rough and splintered. Carbide-tipped blades can typically be resharpened two or three times by a specialist before the teeth are too short to be effective — worthwhile on premium Festool or Bosch blades, less so on budget options where a replacement costs less than the sharpening service.