Bicycle Pedals Price Comparison
Compare 128 bicycle pedals from Shimano, Crankbrothers and DMR Bikes. Find the best price across multiple UK retailers, from flat platforms to clipless SPD systems.
Bicycle Pedals price comparison UK
Pedals are arguably the most personal contact point on any bicycle — yet they're often the last component riders think to upgrade. Our catalogue of 128 bicycle pedals spans everything from sub-41 £ flat platforms to precision clipless systems pushing towards 54 £, and the spread tells an interesting story about how differently cyclists approach this choice.
Crankbrothers dominates our listings by volume, with 43 products averaging around the 46 £ mark — but that average masks a wide range, from the entry-level Eggbeater 1 to the premium Mallet E enduro pedal. DMR Bikes, by contrast, keeps things refreshingly affordable: their V-series flat pedals have built a loyal following among trail riders and commuters who simply want a grippy, durable platform without the faff of cleats. Shimano sits in the middle ground, offering arguably the broadest range of any brand here — from urban flat pedals to SPD-SL road racing systems — and their pricing reflects that versatility.
The fundamental decision every buyer faces is platform versus clipless. Flat pedals suit commuters, casual riders, and mountain bikers who value the ability to dab a foot quickly on technical terrain. Clipless systems — whether Shimano SPD, Look Kéo, or Crankbrothers' distinctive Eggbeater — reward riders willing to invest in compatible shoes with measurably better power transfer and reduced fatigue on longer rides. It's worth noting that "clipless" is a famously confusing term: it actually means your shoe clips in to the pedal via a cleat mechanism. The name dates from when toe clips and straps were the alternative.
For road cyclists, the SPD-SL and Look Kéo standards dominate — both use a three-bolt cleat and offer minimal float for maximum stiffness. Off-road and commuting riders tend to favour the two-bolt SPD system, whose recessed cleat design means you can actually walk in the shoes. The drivetrain components you pair with your pedals matter too: a stiff crankset amplifies the efficiency gains from a quality clipless setup.
One thing our price data makes clear: there's a genuine sweet spot between 41 £ and 46 £ where you get sealed cartridge bearings, decent axle quality, and a reliable engagement mechanism without paying a premium for weight savings you'll never notice on a Sunday ride. Above 50 £, you're largely paying for magnesium or carbon construction, ceramic bearings, and brand cachet. Whether that's worth it depends entirely on how seriously you race. If you're still running the pedals that came with your bike, comparing options in our bicycle spare parts and accessories section is a good place to start a broader component refresh.
How to Choose the Right Bicycle Pedals
With 128 pedals in our catalogue ranging from 37 £ to 54 £, the choice can feel overwhelming — but it really comes down to two questions: what type of riding do you do, and are you prepared to buy dedicated cycling shoes? Get those two answers right and the rest follows naturally.
Platform vs Clipless: the decision that shapes everything else
Platform (flat) pedals accept any shoe and are the right choice for commuters, casual riders, and mountain bikers who prioritise confidence over efficiency. DMR's V-series are the benchmark here — wide, grippy, and robust. Clipless pedals mechanically lock your shoe to the pedal via a cleat, improving power transfer and reducing foot fatigue on longer rides. The trade-off is cost (you need compatible shoes) and a learning curve — expect to topple over at a traffic light at least once while you adjust. Hybrid pedals offer both sides but tend to compromise on both.
Cleat standard compatibility
If you go clipless, the cleat standard is non-negotiable — you cannot mix a Shimano SPD shoe with a Look Kéo pedal. SPD (two-bolt) is the most versatile: recessed cleats mean you can walk normally, making it ideal for commuting, touring, and mountain biking. SPD-SL and Look Kéo (three-bolt) use a larger cleat that protrudes from the sole — efficient for road racing but awkward off the bike. Crankbrothers uses its own four-sided engagement system, which is self-cleaning and popular with muddy trail riders. Choose your pedal standard before buying shoes, not after.
Bearing quality and sealed systems
Cheap pedals use loose ball bearings that corrode quickly in British weather. Anything above roughly 41 £ should feature sealed cartridge bearings — look for this explicitly in the spec sheet. Sealed bearings resist water and grit ingress, dramatically extending service life and reducing maintenance. If you ride through winter or in wet conditions regularly, this is the single most important durability factor. Ceramic hybrid bearings appear at the top end but offer diminishing returns for most riders.
Float range for clipless pedals
Float is the lateral rotational movement your foot has before the cleat disengages. It matters more than most beginners realise. Zero float locks your foot in a fixed position — fine for track racing, potentially damaging for knees over long distances. 6° float (the most common standard) allows natural foot movement and suits the majority of riders. If you have a history of knee problems, look for 9° float or consider a pedal with adjustable tension. Shimano's SPD system and Crankbrothers both offer adjustable release tension, which is worth having as you build confidence.
Platform size and axle quality for flat pedals
For flat pedals, platform size directly affects stability and grip. A larger surface area (over 100mm²) distributes foot pressure more evenly — important on technical terrain and for riders with larger feet. Pin count and pin height determine how aggressively the pedal grips your shoe sole; more pins mean better traction but more wear on soft-soled shoes. Axle diameter (9mm vs 9.5mm) affects stiffness: a 9.5mm chromoly or hollow axle resists flex under hard pedalling loads. The DMR V12 Mag uses a magnesium body to keep weight down without sacrificing platform area.
Weight: when it matters and when it doesn't
Rotational mass at the pedal affects acceleration more than equivalent weight elsewhere on the bike — but only meaningfully if you're racing or climbing competitively. For commuting or leisure riding, saving 50g per pedal by spending an extra 50 £ is a poor trade. Where weight does matter: if you're already running a lightweight build and want consistency across components, or if you're targeting a specific race weight. Crankbrothers' premium range and Race Face's alloy pedals address this market. For everyone else, spend the budget on sealed bearings and platform quality instead.
- Entry-level flat pedals (From 37 £ to 41 £) : DMR V6 and Shimano's basic flat pedals live here. Functional and durable for casual use, but expect loose ball bearings and steel axles. Fine for a commuter bike or a child's first proper upgrade. XLC also appears at this price point. Don't expect longevity in wet conditions — these are fair-weather or low-mileage pedals.
- The sweet spot (From 41 £ to 46 £) : Where most riders should be shopping. Shimano's SPD entry-level clipless pedals (PD-EF202, PD-ED500) and DMR's V11 sit here, offering sealed or semi-sealed bearings and reliable engagement. Good enough for regular commuting, sportives, and trail riding. Shimano's reputation for longevity makes their models particularly strong value in this bracket.
- Performance and trail-focused (From 46 £ to 50 £) : Crankbrothers Eggbeater 1, DMR V12 Mag, and Shimano's mid-range SPD pedals occupy this tier. Noticeably better bearing quality, lighter construction, and more refined engagement mechanisms. Race Face's alloy platforms also appear here. Suitable for enthusiast road cyclists, regular mountain bikers, and anyone doing 100+ miles per month.
- Premium and race-grade (Over 50 £) : Crankbrothers Mallet E, Candy 3, and Race Face's top-tier platforms. Magnesium or carbon bodies, ceramic-option bearings, and precision-machined axles. Crankbrothers dominates this segment with 43 products averaging well above the median. Genuinely worthwhile for competitive riders — overkill for anyone else. Prices can reach 54 £ for the most exotic builds.
Top products
- DMR Bikes V6 bicycle pedal Orange 2 pc(s) (DMR Bikes) : The most affordable entry in our top 15 and genuinely good value for casual riders — but don't expect sealed bearings or longevity in winter commuting conditions.
- Shimano PD-EF202 bicycle pedal Black 2 pc(s) (Shimano) : Shimano's entry clipless SPD pedal and arguably the best starting point for anyone new to cleat systems — reliable engagement, forgiving release tension, and widely available from UK retailers.
- DMR Bikes V11 bicycle pedal Black 2 pc(s) (DMR Bikes) : The sweet spot in DMR's flat pedal range: larger platform than the V6, better pin grip, and a more robust axle. Our top pick for trail riders who prefer flats.
- Crankbrothers Eggbeater 1 bicycle pedal Black, Silver 2 pc(s) (Crankbrothers) : The entry point to Crankbrothers' clipless range and a genuine performer for off-road riding — the four-sided engagement is excellent in mud, though the minimalist platform won't suit riders used to more foot support.
- DMR Bikes V12 Mag bicycle pedal Black 2 pc(s) (DMR Bikes) : DMR's premium flat pedal uses a magnesium body to cut weight without sacrificing platform area — excellent for enthusiast trail riders, though the price jump over the V11 is only justified if weight genuinely matters to you.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between SPD and SPD-SL pedals?
SPD uses a two-bolt cleat recessed into the shoe sole; SPD-SL uses a three-bolt cleat that protrudes from the sole. In practice, SPD is the go-to for mountain biking, commuting, and touring because the recessed cleat lets you walk normally off the bike. SPD-SL is designed for road racing — the larger cleat platform increases stiffness and power transfer, but makes walking awkward and slippery. The two systems are completely incompatible: SPD shoes will not engage with SPD-SL pedals and vice versa. Always confirm which standard your shoes support before buying pedals.
Do I need special shoes to use clipless pedals?
Yes — clipless pedals require shoes with a compatible cleat mounting system. Road cycling shoes use a three-bolt pattern (for SPD-SL or Look Kéo), whilst mountain bike and commuting shoes typically use a two-bolt SPD pattern. Crankbrothers pedals use their own two-bolt standard. You cannot use standard trainers or casual shoes with clipless pedals safely. Budget for shoes alongside your pedals — entry-level SPD-compatible shoes start from around 41 £, and the combined cost is worth factoring into your decision.
Are flat pedals actually worse for performance than clipless?
For most recreational riders, the performance difference is smaller than the marketing suggests. Studies show that clipless pedals offer a measurable efficiency advantage primarily during high-cadence road riding and sustained climbing — conditions that apply to competitive cyclists rather than weekend trail riders. Experienced mountain bikers often prefer flat pedals for technical terrain precisely because they can reposition their feet freely. If you're not racing or riding 150+ miles per week, a quality flat pedal like the DMR V11 or V12 Mag will serve you perfectly well.
What float setting should I choose for clipless pedals?
6° float is the right starting point for the vast majority of riders. It allows natural foot movement during the pedal stroke without feeling loose, and suits most knee geometries. If you have a history of knee pain or IT band issues, opt for 9° float or a pedal with adjustable tension — the extra movement reduces rotational stress on the joint. Fixed or 0° float is only appropriate for track cycling or very experienced road racers who have had a professional bike fit. When in doubt, more float is safer than less.
How often should bicycle pedals be serviced?
Pedals with sealed cartridge bearings typically need servicing every 12–18 months under normal use; loose ball bearing pedals may need attention every 6 months in wet conditions. Signs that service is overdue include grinding or rough rotation when you spin the pedal body by hand, lateral play in the axle, or squeaking under load. Many sealed-bearing pedals (particularly Shimano and Crankbrothers mid-range) are designed for easy bearing replacement rather than full overhaul. Keeping pedal threads greased at installation prevents the notoriously difficult removal problem that plagues neglected pedals.
Are cheap pedals from unknown brands worth buying?
Generally, no — and this is one component where cutting corners tends to cost more in the long run. Budget pedals below 37 £ typically use loose ball bearings with minimal sealing, steel axles prone to corrosion, and thin platform bodies that flex under load. They may last a season on a casual commuter bike, but they'll corrode quickly in British weather and become difficult to remove from the crankarm. The DMR V6 represents a more sensible floor — it's genuinely affordable, widely available from UK retailers, and built to a standard that will outlast three sets of generic alternatives.
Can I fit any pedals to my bike, or are there compatibility issues?
Almost all adult bicycle pedals use a standard 9/16-inch thread and will fit any standard crankarm. The main exception is older or children's bikes with 1/2-inch threaded cranks — these are increasingly rare. Note that pedals are handed: the left pedal has a left-hand (reverse) thread to prevent it unscrewing during riding, and is typically marked 'L'. Fitting a left pedal to the right crank (or vice versa) will strip the thread. Beyond threading, the only real compatibility concern is spindle length — some cranksets require a specific axle length to achieve the correct Q-factor for comfortable pedalling geometry.